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can i use this ink to refill marker pen?

The only time I tried that the thread on the small screw eyes were prone to pulling out, especially if it's drilled first.

I am just finding out about this today! I would like to have a Mammoth. Would you know where I might find one used? Also, do you know if the slicer can be attached to the currently available machine? I think it’s the Elephant 2.0.

Hi, if you ever go to Argentina, there's a polymer clay called NCV Modelismo. It is quiet good to be honest.

I am using some old ProScupt Clay and the instructions say 275° for 10-15 minutes per 1/4" of thickness. I recently did a 1/12 scale mermaid and had it burn bubble and blister after 10 minutes at 275°. I am considering a heat gun for some 1/24 scale figures because I now don't trust my oven.

Pls how can i get those paint ? 5:23

Hello I removed the baldes and now I am having a hard time to put it back together. It is a Nicole clay machine. Can you please help me?

I'm making color swatches with labels behind them written in pen ink, but i accidently found out the ink can and most likely will transfer onto other clays if i line them up Infront of each other. I can't wash or alcohol off the ink even with the 90% alcohol. I figured id put archival tape over the labels to prevent the transfers but the one i'm thinking of getting says it's a 'solvent-based acrylic adhesive'. Even with it not actually touching the clay itself since it would be on the label instead, would i still have to worry about the adhesive residue somehow interacting with the clays? Those tapes are too expensive to just pickup and test out on the clay, and then if it doesn't work out i'll be stuck with multiple tapes that i have no use for since my family don't even collect books.... I could try other clear tapes but i know they yellow overtime which is why i wanted the archival types because they advertise themselves as being acid free and non-yellowing.

Would you recommend using ultra dome UV resin for cylindrical things like pens? I have noticed that the UV resin that i am currently using as a finish for my polymer clay pens has a habit of pulling inward so i am left with areas of my pens that are covered in a thinner amount of resin than other areas of my pens.

hi, I am trying to find out if i can bake my clay then add more clay and bake again.thanks

This video helped me so much! Thank you for posting.

My oven can only go up to 250°c, so how long should i bake it then?

I am a beginner and would love to get more tips for coloring mixing. I find you so helpful Thank you.

thank you so so much

I'm getting a ceramic fiber blanket that I'll wrap my toaster oven in. Over course cutting holes where ventilation is.

where did you get your drawer organizer & does it hold the 2oz clay pkg?

Thank you

Hi, Fimo says bake for 30 mins is that ok?

Dear Cindy I am doing a leopard cane but after curing, the metallic Champagne Cernit I have used for the background is darkened quite a lot. What would you suggest? T ocure it at 120° centigrades? And what's about what I find on the web of not curing for more than 30 minutes Cernit? Many thanks and all my compliments for your wonderful lessons

Oooh, that's really clever! Thank you! :)

Wow this video was 10yrs ago. But it was still very helpful to me. Thank you

Thank you for this ;0;

After several coats I've had it become cloudy. I'm trying to avoid using resin.

Thank you so much! <3

Thank you yes i will

I tried oil pastels today on clay and didn't get good results. I've "played" with clay for so many years and love it even more than I did!

Can we bake wood in the oven with polymer clay on it without it igniting or burning

Hello, I am just starting with polymer clay and I just bought my first pack of Sculpey III. What is a cane and do you buy them premade or only have to make them yourself? I loved this test and I am new to your channel. Thank you. Eileen Snyder

Wonderful tutorial!!

Thanks Cindy! Have a great day and happy Memorial Day weekend!!

I'm struggling. I don't want to store mine in folders because it will end up being too many of them, because now i'm going to keep a color swatch of every color i ever make (i suck at mixing colors in clays in a short time so better to keep a record so i wont waste time the next time i happen to want to make that color again), but if i make a color swatch for every color then ill end up with too many folders. The only option there is for me is large plastic boxes that i'll section off and keep each swatches lined up in front of each other via color rainbow order. Each of my swatches are only 20mm squares so they wont use up too much space in the box, then ill make cotton fabric box shaped divided holders for them and stack them on top of each other similar to stacking egg trays. The problem is 3 or 4 layers of those clay stacks per box would amount to 21lbs each (i did the math via 2oz polymer clay blocks imagining them instead as loads of tiny clay color swatches). I want the Iris plastic large boxes for scrapbooking but their whole shelves can only hold 33 lbs, whereas the way i want to iuse them would be 120 lbs, each shelve only holds 5 lbs but the way ill use them will end up being 21 lbs per shelf..... 3 boxes for color swatches and 3 for raw clays (I also want to store flat pieces of rolled clay color mixes in plastic sleeves in binders as storage). I figured that id get heavy duty shelves instead to hold the individual iris boxes but i cant find any on amazon that's about the same size as the Iris plastic shelves. Sure i could just stack the iris boxes on top of each other without the use of a shelf, but if the shelves themselves cant hold that weight, i doubt the boxes themselves can hold that pressure piled on top of them. Id love for the heavy-duty metal shelves to look similar to the iris shelves that perfectly fits the boxes snuggly. I'm wondering if anyone know where i can get metal heavy-duty shelves in white that holds the Iris scrapbooking boxes perfectly to size, most likely adjustable? The iris boxes are about 13 x 14 x 3 inches. I've gone over the weight limit before with plastic shelves, don't want to repeat that mistake again because they break and snap pretty easy going over the recommended weight and those box unit shelves are too expensive to repeat that mistake again.

hi! does it make a difference if i bake several times or does it have to be 60 minutes in one go? thanks.

That kopper pan, is not for eggs, its for appel slices. Here in Denmark is it an Christmas tradition with Müller wine and appel slices, so I know that pan very Well 😂. Thanks for your fantastic tutorials, they are very informative for a beginner. ❤

If Jutidh Skinner Got 1 pence for every time someone say “skinner blend” on UA-cam, she Will g’et very Rich. 😅 Thank for some fantastic tutors. ❤

I have a question. I want to make a snake out of clay, do i put tinfoil in it then surround it with clay or just make the snake entirely out of clay?

What type of paper do you use? Regular bond sheets?

Thank you so much! I've ruined so many canes trying to learn how to do it. I'm absolutely going to try this. I'm going to make a new cane now. I'll give it a couple days to stiffen up a bit and them try this! 😊

I mostly use Cernit - it's easiest on my aching hands, nice and squishy. I never have fingerprints because I burnish front and back before baking. I transfer the piece from my work surface to my baking sheet using my blades, not my fingers. If I have to touch a piece, I do so by the edge. Even when pinching the edges of a thick stone piece, I avoid fingerprints.

The Adirondack inks have some kind of oil in them. I rarely wear gloves and my fingers wind up sticky after mixing. This is why it takes alcohol to remove the ink. It also makes sense since polymer clay contains oil, among other ingredients. The alcohol inks have to dry before you blend because water would cause scaling, and oil & wayer don't mix. The pigment oil is perfect for blending into PVC. Rit dye is wayer based so it's not going to yield a good result when thinned out with alcohol. It's a great experiment but I'm going to stick with the Adirondack inks. They're consistent and it's less work.

Great tutorial! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.😊

Bought one of those clay polymer handprint kit for my daughter to make for mother's Day and that's exactly what I did! Panic! Lol! Thank you for your video.

May i ask where you got the wall of drawers? J know they are stackable and i could probably find them in Amazon but my luck i would get too small drawers😂 do you have a link for them?

Hello, in your comment section you say that it cures fast 20 to 25 minutes. Do you mean seconds? Thank you.

I don't think I saw how you got your square canes to Fit into this extruder without Altering the pattern. Probably something simple but can you suggest a hint? Thanks!

Many months ago I found Cernit to be much more expensive than other clays. I'm in USA by the way. I'll look again to check prices. Thanks for the very in depth review.

Can I insert the eyescrew before i bake the polymer, and will it stay in? Thanks. 😊

Yes

Hi I am trying to make a 2 colour skinner but I need to be wider to make a trinket dish. I know that putting it in the thinner settings will make it wider but I don't need it too thin for the dish I will need it to be at least on setting no.2 so how do I make it wider without making it too think? Help? Thanks

Hi there what if you want a wider blend with 4 colours? Wide enough to create a trinket dish? How to make it wider please? Thanks